Probably the final posting

Afternoon, well, its a scorcher out here and has been the last 3 days so i've sought refuge in the one half decent internet place in town to bring you up to speed.

The week started with a day and a half of teachings from HH the Dalai Lama. According to the local news there were about 6000 people crammed into his temple and i can believe it! The teachings were great! The DL in fine form, delivering a teaching on the 37 practices of a Bodhisattva on request of a party of monks from Thailand. (His impersonation of how Thai people speak English was hilarious!) He delivered the teaching speaking in English and Tibetan, so we listened to the Tibetan bits on our radios translated by an Indian....confused yet!? Either way, an interesting, intriguing and funny time was had.

And isnt it typical that we find the best Tibetan restaurant in town on the penultimate day! The Gyiyuk Restaurant (as opposed to the Yak Restaurant further down - love that name!) is a tiny little place, a bit like walking into a Tibetan road side cafe, not that i've had the experience yet. There's enough room for about 5 or 6 tables and you hand your order written on a small piece of paper to a small black hand that appears from behind a net curtain, separating the dining area from the 'kitchen'. The kitchen is tiny, only about big enough for one hob, over which Mrs Restaurant Owner cooks - so everything you get is totally fresh and very hot!
I may just go back tonight yet for the last meal before we depart tomorrow morning!

Today is a monlam which is a special sort of get-together of all the monks and nuns of one of the 4 sects. (Gelug - its the sect that the Dalai Lama is head of) So wandering down the streets near the main temple all you can hear is throat singing....load and low. If you've never heard it before imagine the lowest voice you've ever heard and then some chanting words slowly, holding the note, its all a bit....other wordly!

This morning we left presents and donations at the nunnery and we're now on countdown really. I've started packing and Dianes friend Dawa has arranged for a taxi to pik us up at 10am and take us to the airport for the flight to Delhi. Once there its going to be very very hot, possibly mid 30s or more. I know in Mumbai further south its now reached 40 degrees! So we then have hours to kill before our flight to Dubai at about 9pm, still, it beats having to stop overnight in Delhi. Still not one of my favourite places!


And so, if all goes well i'll be touching down in Newcastle on Friday 18th at about 11.30 ish.

Until then, see you later!

More Pics

Another sunny day in Dharamshala

Dinner with Tsering and Trinley

Tibetans on the roof the DLs temple celebrating Losar

Meanwhile...what lurks downstairs...

The room next to mine....!

See, my room's not too bad!

Mind you...i dont think the TV is HD ready.

The Dalai Lamas sister in law gives a speech on Tibetan Women's Day.

Pics...Lots of Pics...

While i remember on...here are some pics of the journey so far...

The cold days before the sun came

Tibetan New Years Soup

Tibetan New Years Offerings at Geden Choling Nunnery

Butter Sculptures

Momos!

The street round the corner from my guesthouse

Suprise visit from Tom Cruise(apparently!?!)

Invasion of the Angry Hippies ...and what is in the cellar...?

Bloody Hippies.

Can i say that again?

Bloody Hippies!

Ah....that feels better. :-)

Ok, the reason for my outburst on our fine flared friends. Today we went to the DLs Temple as its his 2 day teaching very soon and so anyone attending has to go and try to reserve a place to sit on the floor. They key word here is TRY.

So we watched a couple of Japanese carefully place a piece of blue plastic sheeting on the floor to clearly mark out where they and their friends wanted to sit. Then only a few minutes later, in front of them, this hippy in his late forties with silly hat, and multicoloured loon jacket walked in front of them, pulled their sheet to one side and slapped several pieces of cardboard down for him and his hippy friends, marking the temple floor with a black pen to stake his territory. An angry discussion took place watched by a hippy couple of the american variety (equally silly hats and lots of woolen garments) glaring at all passers by as they too now had their place staked. At the FRONT. FIRST.

...SO THERE...

Wasn't this meant to be about Buddhism....?? Hey ho.

Other Things.

We moved into the second guesthouse last night. From Hotel Tibet to Hotel India house. Diane got an upstairs delux room. I got a downstairs semi delux room. By semi delux, i think they meant 'Butlins chalet 1962'. Only in the basement. Under the kitchen. In fact just descending the stairs is a challenge unless you are 5 foot tall as there isn't quite enough headroom for someone of the 5 foot 10 variety.

Anyhow at least its quiet down there...

In the dark....

Mwuh ha haaaaa!

Ahem.

Ps: the strangest film in the world ever...as of a day or two ago is: Quick Gun Murugun. Google it. Or check this link. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quick_Gun_Murugun

Visit India - Lose Weight!

And hello again finally!

I'm pleased to say that i'm now feeling a little better in the delhi belly dept, with my insides remaining where they should be! So what's been happening in the meanwhile....?

The sun is still shining, in fact its getting pretty hot. The power cuts continue too, this is my third attempt at writing a blog (fingers crossed I'll make it to the end!).

So....March 10th. Tibetan Uprising Day. This was the 52nd anniversary of a failed attempt by the Tibetans against the occupying Chinese and the day when the Dalai Lama made the decision to leave his country and become an exile in India.

And 52 years later it was the day on which His Holiness gave a speech to say that he wants to devolve all political power to the Tibetan Government in Exile so that he can concentrate on spiritual matters. The DL read this speech from his temple, packed with at least a couple of thousand Tibetans and hundreds of westerners. There were delegates from many parts of the world, including Chinese and America. The Tibetan Prime Minister (in exile) gave an emotional speech asking the Dalai Lama NOT to stand down. He ended up in tears... like many Tibetans present. They just don't want him to not be leader of Tibet but he is adamant that it is time for change.

It was quite a day.

Return of the Dreaded Delhi Belly!

Well, it had to happen i guess....

I spent the whole of yesterday in my room at the guesthouse venturing only as far as the toilet....yep...the Delhi Belly had struck! Sparing you the gory details i've gone through 5 litres of water in the last day and a half to flush out my system. On the plus side this time i was almost ready for it this time as id brought pills for diaorrhea and rehydration salts. So i got to watch the repeat of the Arsenal Vs Sunderland match and Blackpool Vs Chelsea (the last 10 mins were cracking!).
\
Anyhow, today i'm slightly more with it. I managed a little tea and toast for breakfast and so far its stayed down but i don't suppose i'll be able to manage anything more exciting...which is a bit crappy as we're supposed to be having dinner with Tsering and her husband tonight. (Tsering is the English teacher at Geden Choling). Guess it'll be plain rice or soup for me!

Have taken this morning really slowly, and have been for a wander around town with Diane. Popped in to see Chigmey and Dolma at the shop down the street. Apparently Dolma thinks i look like an actor and has taken to calling me Tom Cruise! (Doesn't she know i'm taller? ;-) )

Tomorrow is the Tibetan Uprising Day and everyone is heading down to the Dalai Lama Temple for the speeches, singing and dancing followed by a march through town. It's going to be manic, the Tibetans will all be out in traditional dress and are closing their shops for the day and its noticeable that there's been an increase in the number of westerners here.

Another Sunny Day!

Hi,

Well as the title suggests, its another sunny day! All of a sudden its really hot and more like how it should be in this neck of the woods. And so I've been off for a trek to Bhagsu (the nearest town/village to Dharamshala). Diane's not so good at the physical stuff so i trekked alone out of the valley and over the hills following the winding road past the slate quarry and uphill to Bhagsu falls. On the way i had a repeat of the 'Amritsar experience' when a couple of groups of Sikh men came up to me wanting their photos taken with me! (I guess i must just look all exotic and western looking to them haha!) Anyhow, i passed quickly through Bhagsu 'town', its mostly Indian run guesthouses aimed at the more affluent backpacker and Hindu travellers heading to the nearby temple complex (with outdoor swimming pool!).

Just before you get to the falls you have to clamber over a rockface, its not too bad but you have to watch your step, particularly as the rocks get sprayed by the falls. Two Indians (about 20yrs old) came up to me asking how to get over...i pointed at the rockface and offered for them to go first. They politely declined adding that: "You go first, you probably have insurance".... er thank you.

So i did. Anyhow, it was pretty good as falls go, not a patch on a certain one in Canada but worth the trek.

So just recovering now before tea....that's my exercise for the day!

(ps: will get some more pics on here once the 3 day new year celebrations are over. At present only the Indian shops are open as all the Tibetans have popped off for a chang or two and so the only place i can upload pics is shut...and the pcs here are a little er...dusty lol.)

Happy New Year!

HAPPY NEW YEAR! - LOSAR TASHI DELEK!

Well yesterday things definitely started to gain momentum. There was a Tibetan wedding taking place in the hotel (everyone in traditional costume) plus traditional gifts left in the reception of the guesthouse for the happy couple (a bucketful of chang: leathal tibetan beer, and a pile of cow dung - for fertility!). Out in the streets fireworks were going off everywhere, children running around like crazy singing folk songs, someone somewhere playing Bob Marley (Exodus - somewhat appropriate!), everywhere families and friends having fun!

And this morning - SUNSHINE!! At last! After yesterday's torrential rain, hailstones the size of 5p coins and thunder it was most welcome! The locals reckoned it was the end of the year and the weather using itself up to remove obstacles for the new year ahead, either way, waking to sunshine streaming through the window was great!

After breakfast of tasty banana pancake (served in my room as the majority of the staff are on Losar holiday) I went down to the Dalai Lamas temple with Diane to see what was happening as we were told that this is what people do on new years day, go to temple, visit friends, drink a little chang...all sounds quite civilised! The temple was absolutely buzzing with people, the majority in traditional dress and kids playing with new year presents (remote controlled cars seemed quite popular). After a little people watching, meditation etc we wandered off for lunch and then i popped off for a relaxing afternoon out on an observation platform overlooking the Kangra Valley with a good book.

Happy New Year!

(photos to follow another day)

Wednesday 2nd March and its still raining!

Ok so, yesterday afternoon we went back to Geden Choling for a medicine buddha puja, this is a ceremony where prayers are said for the sick and ill in the neighbourhood. The local Tibetans make donations on behalf of their ill relatives and then the name of the relative is read out as part of the ceremony.

We couldn't really take pictures of this (obviously) but if you can imagine a hall filled with about 165 nuns in red robes chanting, clashing cymbals, ringing handbells, above them a wall of intricate thangka paintings of various buddhists figures/lama/deities and at the back of the hall (where the stage would be) a throne to the Dalai Lama and a large framed picture of His Holiness....surrounded by xmas tree lights!

This ceremony went on for over 2 hours which was quite long and quite cold as the door of the prayer hall leads out into the open, luckily a nun came round with an enormous teapot a couple of times to offer butter/milky tea. Quite an experience!

Other stuff: FINALLY got a good nights sleep for the first time since leaving the UK, the amazing curry we had last night probably helped too, but i woke at 8am feeling more myself (AT LAST!). The monkeys were out in force this morning, a gang of about 7 came down the wall near my window ledge and lept across to the next guesthouse before the neighbourhood dogs chased them off, i guess the weather is pushing them more into town as they were never this close last time i was here. Oh yes, i saw a mongoose last night too out the 'back yard.'

Anyhow, Im typing this entry on a VERY rainy afternoon. According to the locals we could have rain until Sunday :-( either way today we've been over to see Phillipa, the wife of Jeremy Russell, our guide on the last trip. They live out in the Kangra valley in a beautiful cottage called very appropriately 'Paradise'. After a very tasty lunch of homemade soup, salad and jacket pots, Phillipa showed us around a number of charity projects she is involved in (a reading centre for children and a small medical centre) in the local Indian community (thats when she's not out also being a tourguide!). Either way, both very positive projects and both certainly make a difference!

And finally: Indian TV is bizarre! Last night i decided to turn on the TV for the first time since arriving and found 116 channels of bollywood, discovery channel (twice), Dalai Lama TV, a Chinese comedy that wasnt remotely funny, the Sunderland match, fake Tibetan TV (produced by China and very much propaganda - Chinese pretending to be Tibetans to convince us of what a lovely unspoilt place it is!)...and my favourite, the large bearded yogi channel. This had nothing to do with bears or pic-a-nic baskets but seemed to be a bloke with a beard doing extreme belly dancing to a crowd of thousands... while spiritual matters loudly and lewdly...only in India.

Bye for now.

A cold wet Tuesday

Last night it rained. A lot. Its also VERY cold again. So we didn't exactly wake feeling genki (to use a japanese phrase)...for the rest of you that's energetic/enthusiastic/raring to go!


Anyhow, we went back to Geden Choling to find they'd done all their spring cleaning and didn't need our services today. However, we've been invited back to help out and attend a number of ceremonies later in the week, (including their Losar ceremony which is very special and lasts about 4 hours.)

Still cant get my pics uploaded. But trying so come back in a few days and hopefully they'll be here!

Day 3 Monday 28th February

Last night i slept very soundly (in my bed, inside my sleeping bag, with the quilt on top) irrespective of the bhangra music, the sound of what sounded like walls being moved, and occasional explosions from the nearby quarry...until 11.30 when my body thought it was morning.

It wasn't. I then slept until 2.30, and it still wasn't morning. Then the dog chorus started.

All across the valley dogs howled in tormented harmony followed by the crying and howling of something very large and probably feline (though i really cant be sure) and i thought: yep, i'm in Dharamshala!

I played Jimi Hendrix on my mp3 player for an hour or so, just to quiet things down, then tried again to sleep. 8am and i'm up and about and feeling finally something like alive we went for a very tasty breakfast lemon/banana pancake and black tea!

View of the Kangra Valley from McLeod Ganj.

After getting ourselves sorted we made our way downhill to the Dalai Lamas temple via Geden Choeling Nunnery to see some of Diane's friends. The nunnery fell victim to a landslide last year and the nuns are currently trying to rebuild, adding accomodation for the older nuns and create a space for debate. Debating is very important for both Buddhist nuns and monks as everyday they learn various topics of philosophy and then in the evening working in pairs they debate to proove that they have understood what they were taught earlier in the day. (Its very entertaining to watch as debates can often get quite heated!) At present they have nowhere to debate and are having to do it on cold concrete floors which is creating quite serious health problems for many. We met Seldon, the nunnery secretary who is about 4 foot high and very very cheery, offering us Tibetan tea while explaining that the nuns are currently (aside from being engaged in building work) preparing for Losar/New Year and so EVERYTHING is being dusted down, cleaned and washed in preparation for the celebrations and ceremonies. Tomorrow we're going to go back and give them a hand.

Building work at Geden Choling Nunnery.

We eventually visit the Dalai Lamas temple, this is kind of like the Tibetan equivalent of a village hall in some ways, besides teachings and ceremonies the local community use it for exhibitions, films on the evening, pretty much all sorts!

Days 1 & 2 Sat/Sun (26/27th Feb)

Ok, so here we go:

The Flight 1. Newcastle to Dubai.
My first flight with Air Emirates went very smoothly. The crew were helpful, attentive and the food was suprisingly edible....apart from the main course ('chicken') which i ate around. Sat next to me was a retired dinner lady who had been told the previous day by her doctor NOT to fly due to her kidney problem (dialysis 3 times a week cant be much fun), who'd had a funny turn the night before, and hated flying - so good company. She also wasn't supposed to eat sweets but clearly liked them a lot... and by the end of the flight half a packet of mints had been poured into my hands!

Dubai
Landing at Dubai was fantastic. 28 degrees at midnight and the camera in the nose of the plane showed a sea of lights for miles. A very impressive airport, i've never seen so many private jets parked outside of anywhere. I'd arranged to meet Diane in McDonalds and having asked the lady at the information desk for directions i walked to the end of the terminal and waited. And waited.

Meanwhile Diane at the opposite end of the terminal on the floor below waited at the other branch of McDonalds. Anyhow an hour before take off we met up and compared notes so far.

Day 2 Sunday 27th Feb - and Flight 2 - Dubai to Delhi 4am
This time the company for my flight was on one side a tiny Hindu grandmother (think Kumars) constanly clutching her handbag for dear life and a muslim Indian to the right with a seriously large beard and a copy of the koran on his iphone, which he chanted from for the first 30 mins or so of the flight. It was a short flight im pleased to say but i still hadnt had any sleep since 6am on Saturday and my insides were starting to not know where they were..so i passed on curry for breakfast.

Finally we arrived in Delhi.

You know you're in Delhi airport when every other person is a soldier carrying a machine gun and the majority of men over 50 have dyed their hair rust red....no, dont ask my why...they just do.

Thanks to the wonderful organisation that is Indian immigration we arrive at the Kingfisher Air desk for the flight to Dharamshala with only 30 mins to spare....so it wasn't looking good! However, we manage to flag down an official, explain our predicament and they very nicely let us jump the mile long queue, and with
only minutes to spare and the final, FINAL! call being shouted energetically down the tannoy we board the bus to the plane. Its has propellors.

Flight 3. Delhi to Dharamshala.
The flight to Dharamshala a 'kingfisher experience' apparently, goes well with a nice view of the Himalayan foothills which are still pretty much snow covered and we arrive on time, about 1pm at Kangra 'airport'. Not that its small....but I've been in bigger car parks.

Taxi ride to town.
We were met by Dawa; a Tibetan friend of Diane who owns a shop in Mcleod Ganj, who after exchanging tradional white scarves (khattas) took us to a taxi for the half hour ride uphill to Mcleod Ganj. Never seen so many monkeys so close to town and i'd forgotten how exciting taxi rides can be! Its at moments like this that im reminded of an official road sign i noticed on the last Indian trip: '"better to be Mr Late than the late Mr...REDUCE SPEED!"

Still, our driver skillfully navigated his way around all traffic (on both sides of the road), cows, people, and anything else in his path to deposit safely at Hotel Tibet.

The bathroom.

The view from the bedroom.

McLeod Ganj
Its almost Losar, Tibetan new year (March the 5th this year) otherwise known as the year of the iron female rabbit, and McLeod Ganj has noticeably more Tibetan people in the streets than in 2009 and yes, the western hippy contigent in capes and things are still very much in evidence.

Er.....This is the bus station

And its cold! Very cold. In the space of 1 hour we have snow, rain and sun and later on a power cut. Somewhat zonked out by our travels we head for something to eat: Tibetan Thaltuk a hearty, warming and very filling soup of seasonal vegetables and steamed momos (dumplings)

Bed by 7.45 and straight off to sleep!

How, when and where?

In case you want to know, here's the rough diary of events:

Saturday 26th of February:
I fly from Newcastle to Dubai where i'll hopefully find Diane somewhere near McDonalds.
We fly from Dubai to Delhi.

Sunday 27th of February:
We arrive in Delhi then fly up to Dharamshala.
We are met by Dawa (local Tibetan) who will drive us to Hotel Tibet in Mcleod Ganj.
http://hoteltibetdhasa.com/

Saturday 5th of March:
Losar Celebrations - Tibetan New Year!

Thursday 10th of March:
Public talk by the Dalai Lama on the 52nd Anniversary of Tibetan Uprising Day
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1959_Tibetan_uprising
Paul's Birthday (yes, i know - I've missed it again!)

Monday 14th/Tuesday 15th of March:
Join a group of Thai monks at a 2 day teaching from the Dalai Lama.

Thursday 17th of March:
We fly from Dharamshala to Delhi then Delhi to Dubai.

Friday 18th of March:
Diane flies back to Heathrow and i fly to Newcastle.

Saturday 19th of March:
Either in bed or 22s.

Who is the Dalai Lama?

No blog on Dharamshala can go without mentioning the Dalai Lama, but who is he?

Maybe you know of him as that rather jolly old monk interviewed by Michael Palin, or maybe you saw him in the Simpsons but either way, here's a quick overview:


The Dalai Lama as figurehead.
As His Holiness, the 14th Dalai Lama, Tenzin Gyatso is loved and worshipped by the Tibetan people. There is no direct comparison in British culture (or western culture in general) as to what he repesents.

He is spiritual, political, and national figurehead for Tibet its people and beliefs.

(Imagine if you can someone who could encapsulate the Queen, the Archbishop of Canterbury or the Pope, the Prime Minister and the mythical figurehead Britannia all in one and maybe you get close.)


The Dalai Lama as a man. 
Imagine being born in 1935 in one of the more emptier parts of Tibet.

Your father is a horse trader and your mother bore 15 other children apart from yourself - and only 6 survived.

At the age of 2 you meet a party of monks and dignitaries who decide that you are the reincarnation of the leader of your country.

At the age of 4 you have to leave your home and travel for weeks across wilderness to Lhasa the capitol of Tibet to live away from your family in the Potala Palace - one of the largest buildings in the world at the time.

At the age of 7 you become a monk.

At the age of 15 you become the leader of your nation. Then your country is invaded by China. You dont have an army to speak of so you write to the leaders of the western world for help - including America and Great Britain. You are ignored.

China then 'liberates' Tibet, over 100,000 Tibetans die and over 6000 monasteries and nunneries are destroyed. Thousands of your people are imprisoned and tortured as part of their 'liberation'.

What do you do next?

For more information go here:
http://www.freetibet.org/about/10-facts-about-tibet

http://www.dalailama.com/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dalai_Lama

Where is Dharamshala?

So i guess the first thing I should do on this blog is tell you a little about Dharamshala.

Dharamshala is located in the north of India in a region known as Himachal Pradesh. It's name is derived from Hindi/Sanskrit and is a compound of the words 'Dharma' and 'Shala'. While shala is easily translated into 'resting place' or 'sanctuary' dharma is a little more tricky to translate as it is a word with many meanings depending on your beliefs (Hindu/Buddhist) but essentially 'dharma' for a western audience translates into something like 'spiritual belief/law'.

So Dharamshala is the shelter or sanctuary for spiritual pilgrims.

Which is kind of appropriate as since 1959 Dharamshala has been the home to HH the 14th Dalai Lama (and the Tibetan Government in exile) since he fled Tibet following invasion by the Peoples Republic of China in 1950.

Since the Dalai Lama's arrival many Tibetans have followed to escape the harsh conditions in their occupied homeland, and currently of the 19,200 people living in Dharamshala over 5000 of these are Tibetan refugees.

For further information have a look here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dharamsala